Thursday, January 23, 2014

Bismillah e Fuuta (Welcome to the Fuuta)

     Hi all! For this post I had my PCV friend Anna from the north give some information about what it's like to live in the North, and she also gives a little information about living in a city!


     The Fuuta refers to the northern regions of Senegal, where I have been living

for the past 10 months. I am a Peace Corps health volunteer and my name is Anna

Adams, though my family here calls me by my given Senegalese name, Halimata Sow.

Specifically, the city I live in, Ourossogui, is in the northeastern region of Matam only

about 10 miles away from the Mali border.

     Although Senegal is roughly the size of the state of South Carolina, the northern

and southern regions of the country vary greatly. The most notable difference is the

climate. Whereas the southern region has a lush, moist and tropical climate, the north is

a dry desert landscape with temperatures that regularly exceed 110 degrees Fahrenheit

during the summer months. Multiple showers in a day are very important! There is

minimal vegetation due to the sandy soil and rain only occurs for one month out of the

entire year. Sand storms are also a frequent event throughout the spring and into the

month of June.

     My site is also different from the traditional Peace Corps site since I live in

a fairly large city with a population of around thirty thousand people. Unlike many

volunteers, I have electricity and running water from a spigot on a daily basis, though

usually not for the entire day, especially during the hot season. Due to the heat, water

shortages and power outages are common. The city is divided into 11 neighborhoods,

each with a chief de quartier that serves as a community leader. There are two main

national paved roads that run through the city and smaller unpaved sand roads throughout

the neighborhoods. Along the main road, many sellers set up stalls to sell fruits, sandals,

and other household goods. There is also a mayor’s office, daily market, and small one-

room stores that sell food products, hardware goods, and cleaning products. Even though

my city is large, there are no chain grocery or clothing stores. All produce and meats are

purchased at the daily market and for clothing, people usually buy meters of fabric to

be taken to a tailor. The city also offers recreational activities and every summer there

is a soccer league that takes place at the local stadium with teams representing all the

neighborhoods. My city also has five schools, eleven mosques, a youth center, hospital,

and radio station.

     The northern culture is a unique blend of Senegalese customs and Muslim

religious traditions, which is reflected in their daily lives. The kids in my family attend

Koranic School, where they study the holy book of Islam the Koran, to receive a religious

education in addition to elementary school. Both men and women are also more reserved

in their dress, for example, long pants and skirts past the knees are required despite the

heat. Shorts are only acceptable when exercising or participating in a sport activity.

But don’t let the harsher climate, sand storms, and more restrictive dress code

scare you. The Fouta is my home and I really do enjoy it here. My family and most

people in my region are ethnically pulaar and speak a dialect of pulaar that resembles

the language spoken in the south. Pulaars are fun, outgoing, and welcoming people that

above all believe in respect and “teddungal” (hospitality). A guest will always be invited

to stay for lunch and three cups of tea will be served after the meal as another sign of

hospitality.

      Traditionally pulaars are herders tending to cattle, sheep, or goats. Since I live

in a larger urban city there are many herder families, as well as those that own food

stalls, shops, or work as clothing tailors or mechanics. Even if a family does not work

as herders, they may still own several cows or sheep as a financial investment to be sold

later or eaten at a holiday celebration. The frequent presence of cattle also allows for milk

production and one of my favorite treats, kosam. Kosam is a sweetened milk drink served

cold or over ice similar to frozen yogurt or a milkshake. It is by far the best thing to get

you through a hot day in the Fuuta.

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